If you're looking for a single number to answer "how much should a cat weigh," I've got bad news. There isn't one. Telling you the average cat weighs 10 pounds is about as useful as saying the average human is 5'9" – it ignores the massive variation between a petite Siamese and a hulking Maine Coon, between a spry kitten and a senior cat. The real answer is more of a range, tied to breed, frame, and life stage. More importantly, the number on the scale is just one piece of the puzzle. What matters more is body condition – how that weight is distributed on your specific cat.
What You'll Learn Inside
Why Getting Your Cat's Weight Right Isn't Just Vanity
I think a lot of people see a chubby cat and think it's cute. I used to. Then I worked with a vet who laid it out plainly: obesity isn't a cosmetic issue; it's a chronic, painful, and life-shortening disease. An overweight cat isn't just carrying extra fluff. That extra fat tissue acts like an endocrine organ, pumping out inflammatory hormones that put strain on every system in the body.
We're talking about a significantly higher risk for:
- Diabetes mellitus: The pancreas can't keep up with insulin demand.
- Osteoarthritis: Extra pounds grind down joints, making movement painful.
- Urinary tract diseases: Including fatal blockages, especially in males.
- Hepatic lipidosis: A serious liver condition that can strike if an overweight cat stops eating suddenly.
- Even skin problems and a decreased ability to groom properly.
On the flip side, unexplained weight loss is often the first and only sign of a major underlying problem – hyperthyroidism, kidney disease, cancer. So monitoring weight isn't about hitting some ideal; it's a fundamental part of preventive healthcare.
Forget the Scale: How to Use the Body Condition Score (BCS)
Here's the expert insight most guides miss: You should judge your cat with your hands and eyes, not just the scale. A 12-pound cat with a large frame could be underweight, while a 9-pound cat with a tiny frame could be obese. This is where the Body Condition Score (BCS) system, endorsed by the World Small Animal Veterinary Association, comes in.
It's a 9-point or 5-point scale. I prefer the 5-point for simplicity:
- 1/5 - Emaciated: Ribs, spine, hip bones starkly visible from a distance. No palpable fat. Severe abdominal tuck.
- 2/5 - Underweight: Ribs easily felt with minimal fat covering. Obvious waist when viewed from above. Abdominal tuck is clear.
- 3/5 - Ideal: This is the goal. Ribs palpable with a slight fat covering. Noticeable waist behind the ribs. Abdomen tucked up when viewed from the side.
- 4/5 - Overweight: Ribs difficult to feel under a thick fat layer. Waist barely visible or absent. Abdominal fat pad starting to show.
- 5/5 - Obese: Ribs not palpable under a heavy fat layer. No waist; back appears broad. Obvious abdominal fat pad. Fat deposits on face and limbs.
Try this now: Run your hands along your cat's side. You should be able to feel individual ribs like the back of your hand, not see them. Then, look down from above. There should be a gentle inward curve (a waist) behind the rib cage. From the side, the belly should tuck up, not hang down parallel to the floor.
Cat Weight Chart: A Rough Guide by Breed and Age
Okay, with the BCS in mind, here are some typical weight ranges. Remember, these are ranges for adult cats at an ideal body condition (BCS 3/5). A male will often be 2-4 pounds heavier than a female of the same breed.
| Cat Breed / Type | Typical Female Weight Range | Typical Male Weight Range | Key Consideration |
|---|---|---|---|
| Domestic Shorthair/Longhair (Average Mix) | 8 - 12 lbs (3.6 - 5.4 kg) | 10 - 15 lbs (4.5 - 6.8 kg) | Frame size varies wildly. Use BCS! |
| Siamese, Oriental Shorthair | 6 - 10 lbs (2.7 - 4.5 kg) | 8 - 12 lbs (3.6 - 5.4 kg) | Naturally slender, fine-boned. A 9lb Siamese might be portly. |
| Maine Coon, Norwegian Forest Cat | 10 - 15 lbs (4.5 - 6.8 kg) | 15 - 25 lbs (6.8 - 11.3 kg) | Slow to mature (3-5 years). A large, lean 20lb male can be healthy. |
| British Shorthair | 9 - 15 lbs (4 - 6.8 kg) | 12 - 18 lbs (5.4 - 8.2 kg) | Stocky, "cobby" build. They carry weight differently; look for that waist. |
| Bengal, Abyssinian | 8 - 12 lbs (3.6 - 5.4 kg) | 10 - 15 lbs (4.5 - 6.8 kg) | Muscular, athletic build. Weight should feel dense, not soft. |
| Sphynx, Devon Rex | 6 - 10 lbs (2.7 - 4.5 kg) | 8 - 12 lbs (3.6 - 5.4 kg) | Often feel heavier than they look due to lack of fur and muscle density. |
How Age Changes the Game
Kittens should gain about 1 pound per month until they're 6 months old. Weigh them weekly; steady gain is key. They're often a little round in the belly – that's normal kitten pudge.
Adult cats (1-7 years) should hold a stable weight. Any change of more than 10% of their body weight, up or down, is a vet visit.
Senior cats (8+ years) often lose muscle mass, a condition called sarcopenia. The scale might stay the same, but they're exchanging muscle for fat. Or they might just slowly lose weight. Both scenarios need a vet's assessment.
Navigating Special Cases and Common Misconceptions
"But my cat is just big-boned!" I hear this all the time. True large frames exist (like in Maine Coons), but in my experience, it's far less common than people think. The shoulder blades and hips don't lie. If you can't feel any bony landmarks under a layer of soft tissue, it's not frame – it's fat.
Neutered/Spayed cats have a lower metabolic requirement, dropping by up to 30%. If you keep feeding them the same amount as an intact, roaming tomcat, they will gain weight. It's simple math.
Indoor vs. Outdoor cats are another big one. The indoor cat's world is smaller, its activities are limited, and food is always available. Their calorie needs are significantly lower.
A Personal Story: My friend's cat, Mochi, is a classic example. She's a domestic shorthair who hit 16 pounds. The owner insisted she was "just fluffy." At the vet, she was a BCS 4.5/5. We put her on a measured diet (using a kitchen scale for her wet food) and got a simple laser pointer for 5-minute play sessions twice a day. In 8 months, she dropped to 12 pounds. The change wasn't just on the scale. She started jumping onto windowsills again, playing more, and her coat looked glossier. The "fluff" was hiding a lethargic, uncomfortable cat.
How to Manage Your Cat's Weight (Practical, Not Perfect)
If your cat needs to lose or gain weight, always start with a vet. Rule out medical causes first. Then, it's about consistent, small changes.
For Weight Loss:
- Measure food precisely. Cups are inaccurate. Use a gram scale. Your vet will calculate the daily calories for target weight, not current weight.
- Switch to scheduled meals, no free-feeding. Two to four small meals a day is better than one big one.
- Incorporate wet food. It's lower in calories and higher in moisture than dry, helping with satiety.
- Increase activity, not just exercise. Puzzle feeders, food-dispensing toys, or even just placing the food bowl in a different room or up a cat tree can help.
A safe rate of loss is about 1-2% of body weight per week. Faster loss risks hepatic lipidosis.
For Underweight Cats or Weight Gain:
- Again, vet first to rule out parasites, dental disease, hyperthyroidism, etc.
- Offer more frequent, highly palatable meals. Warming wet food can increase smell and appeal.
- Discuss high-calorie nutritional gels or prescription diets with your vet.
- Make the environment low-stress. Anxiety can suppress appetite.
Your Cat Weight Questions, Answered
Sudden, drastic diets can be dangerous for cats, potentially leading to hepatic lipidosis (a serious liver condition). Work with your vet to determine a safe daily calorie intake. The key is combining measured meals (using a kitchen scale for accuracy) with increased environmental enrichment. Simple changes like moving the food bowl upstairs or using puzzle feeders can make a big difference. Avoid free-feeding dry food, as it's calorie-dense and easy to over-consume.
Unexplained weight loss in a cat with a normal or increased appetite is a major red flag. It's not just about calories in vs. out; it often points to the body failing to absorb or utilize nutrients properly. Common underlying causes include hyperthyroidism (overactive thyroid gland), diabetes, intestinal parasites, or chronic kidney disease. This warrants a prompt veterinary visit for bloodwork and diagnosis. Don't wait to see if it 'gets better on its own.'
Not necessarily. While 15 lbs would be obese for a typical domestic shorthair, it might be perfectly normal for a large-breed male like a Maine Coon or a Norwegian Forest Cat. This is why the Body Condition Score (BCS) is far more valuable than the number on the scale alone. A vet can help you assess your cat's BCS, which looks at rib coverage, waist definition, and abdominal fat pads to determine if your cat is underweight, ideal, overweight, or obese, regardless of its actual weight.
For most adult cats, a monthly weigh-in is sufficient for monitoring. Weigh them at the same time of day, ideally before a meal, for consistency. Use a digital baby scale or weigh yourself holding the cat and then subtract your own weight. For kittens (under 1 year), weekly weigh-ins are crucial to ensure proper growth. For cats on a weight loss plan, your vet might recommend bi-weekly checks to track progress and adjust the plan. The goal is to catch trends early, not to stress over daily fluctuations.
So, how much should a cat weigh? It's the wrong first question. Start with "What is my cat's Body Condition Score?" Use the weight ranges as a loose guideline, but let your hands and eyes be the final judge. A healthy weight means a cat that can leap, play, groom effortlessly, and live a longer, more comfortable life. That's the real goal, far beyond any number on a scale.
January 20, 2026
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